The main fuselage is nearly completed. The next page of the manual features the typical layouts found in a Citadel Miniatures booklet: a small blow-up box showing what needs to be assembled multiple times and then set aside.
Irritatingly, it describes a pair of turbine assemblies that do not have any supporting tabs holding their halves together. Only on the following page you will see that as you fit them, there will be tabs on the base where these pieces will go. See the photo below: the starboard turbine is about ready for assembly and the round bit at the back provides a ridge that will slot into the turbine’s grooves.
A friendly reminder: test-fit EVERYTHING. At a glance, the tail stabilizers look the same for both side, but they are indeed side-specific. The ridges slotting into the tails are angled, so try each bit before gluing. And be sure not to use too much glue. That’s common sense but is extra important in this case because those doors that are resting in the bottom guide slot will be secured by those tails at the top. Just a drop too much and you’ll wind up gluing the doors.
Another note about those tails, the diagram in the manual indicates there’s a bit that fits underneath next to the main fuselage… but I simply cannot find the corresponding pieces. I’m guessing this is some kind of left-over from the original Forge-World resin version of the kit. For example, there’s a bit in the front corners of the fuselage that, even with camera angles in consideration, it will not align exactly as in the photo. I surmise that parts of the documentation are recycled from documenting the old version of the model.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
Imperial Guard Valkyrie 1
I know, I didn't get around to posting my final finished Stormlord. I will, I promise! But I'm just so excited to finally get my hands on the new Imperial Guard Valkyrie kit. Not because I play IG, but simply because I think the IG faction of Warhammer 40k have the coolest looking mechanical designs. They look grounded in real Earth technology but at the same time, taken to extreme ridiculousness.
The first thing to notice is that the kit is jammed into just 4 main sprues. But thankfully, a casual glance will reveal that most of the parts from a given sub-assembly are within the same sprue. We're still a long way from Bandai's individually numbered pieces, but it's manageable.
My made a few notes going through the manual. There are lots of moving parts rather than options on this kit. Unlike my very first Tau Devilfish, I won't need to glue a hatch permanently open, it seems. And the deploying guns are on free-swinging hinges. The rear access ramp is also hinged. I'm liking this build already.
Those guns are going to be a problem, however. With all the detail on those sprues, you'd think by now Games Workshop would design a multi-part Heavy Bolter so that I wouldn't have to drill my barrels anymore. I don't know what it is, they can put reasonable dents in exhaust pipes to simulate hollow-ness, but they can't put a similar dent for a weapon barrel. Oh, and last note about the gun: pay attention to the images in the manual. It's supposed to have grips for a soldier... but for some reason this bit is ommitted on the detailed blow-up of the assembly (if you look at the port-side version you'll see it does have the grips - and there are indeed grips bitz on the sprue for this.
After test-fitting several of the panels, I started glue. But here's another tip to save some trouble. Do the sides of the main fuselage first: That is, do one side, slot the gun in place and then glue on the top part of the hinge to hold it down. Then position the rear hatch and glue the other side in place to hold that down. Slot in the gun for that side and glue down the top of this second gun hinge. The reason you must do the front LAST is simply because the side panels have a little tab near the fore that fits right between the floor and the edge of the fore panel. Just trust me on this, I know it's counter-intuitive. If you've built any of the Cities of Death kits, you know you should connect and glue 3 adjoining panels to make a stable structure first. However in this case, because of those tabs, that strategy goes right out the window.
After that, page one is done. Just glue on the "roof" of this crew compartment. You might try tying it down with an elastic while it dries. Past experience with Citadel Miniatures kits is that large chunks warp a little. I don't know if that's to do with the plastic they use or if it's just the Canadian cold. More to come soon.
The first thing to notice is that the kit is jammed into just 4 main sprues. But thankfully, a casual glance will reveal that most of the parts from a given sub-assembly are within the same sprue. We're still a long way from Bandai's individually numbered pieces, but it's manageable.
My made a few notes going through the manual. There are lots of moving parts rather than options on this kit. Unlike my very first Tau Devilfish, I won't need to glue a hatch permanently open, it seems. And the deploying guns are on free-swinging hinges. The rear access ramp is also hinged. I'm liking this build already.
Those guns are going to be a problem, however. With all the detail on those sprues, you'd think by now Games Workshop would design a multi-part Heavy Bolter so that I wouldn't have to drill my barrels anymore. I don't know what it is, they can put reasonable dents in exhaust pipes to simulate hollow-ness, but they can't put a similar dent for a weapon barrel. Oh, and last note about the gun: pay attention to the images in the manual. It's supposed to have grips for a soldier... but for some reason this bit is ommitted on the detailed blow-up of the assembly (if you look at the port-side version you'll see it does have the grips - and there are indeed grips bitz on the sprue for this.
After test-fitting several of the panels, I started glue. But here's another tip to save some trouble. Do the sides of the main fuselage first: That is, do one side, slot the gun in place and then glue on the top part of the hinge to hold it down. Then position the rear hatch and glue the other side in place to hold that down. Slot in the gun for that side and glue down the top of this second gun hinge. The reason you must do the front LAST is simply because the side panels have a little tab near the fore that fits right between the floor and the edge of the fore panel. Just trust me on this, I know it's counter-intuitive. If you've built any of the Cities of Death kits, you know you should connect and glue 3 adjoining panels to make a stable structure first. However in this case, because of those tabs, that strategy goes right out the window.
After that, page one is done. Just glue on the "roof" of this crew compartment. You might try tying it down with an elastic while it dries. Past experience with Citadel Miniatures kits is that large chunks warp a little. I don't know if that's to do with the plastic they use or if it's just the Canadian cold. More to come soon.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Nanoha ...ready for summer!
Labels:
PVC figure,
review,
stuff
Just in time for the official announcement (and release of the prototype photos) for the her best friend Fate T Harlaown, I spent my OT pay on the quarter scale (but full-scale *kawaii*) Nanoha Takamachi. At first I was taken aback by the size of the box delivered to my local post-office pick-up.Turns out the seller was just being extra generous with the packing. Quarter scale figures are pretty large to begin with, often towering over 12 inches. This seller took no chances and wrapped the package in tissue paper to prevent scratches and then a layer of bubble wrap and then settling it into this oversize box.Nanoha is the heroine of a "magical girl" spin-off from ...where else but in Japan... an eroge. So take away the hentai, drop the cast of younger siblings into an alternate setting and voila: instant lolita-icon. But... thankfully, with continuity progression, pedophiles are out of luck and little Nanoha has grown into quite a beauty.As far as sculpt goes, she is almost free-standing (she is, but don't even breathe on her else she will topple). She does come with the usual plastic base, which so functional that I debated whether or not to use the metal support rod. I'm not a big fan of those, I think they make a figure look stupid.
Others have pointed out that despite her large scale, there's very little detail on the sculpt. I do, however, appreciate that the strings on her bikini are separate bits in some places, which is rather cool. Can't ask for everything, but it's hard not to considering how wonderful the FREEing renditions of the Haruhi girls were. Does this mean, I'm disappointed? Not really. Especially not when she smiles at me the way she does. ^_^;
Others have pointed out that despite her large scale, there's very little detail on the sculpt. I do, however, appreciate that the strings on her bikini are separate bits in some places, which is rather cool. Can't ask for everything, but it's hard not to considering how wonderful the FREEing renditions of the Haruhi girls were. Does this mean, I'm disappointed? Not really. Especially not when she smiles at me the way she does. ^_^;
Tuesday, June 09, 2009
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Friday, June 05, 2009
Reaction: PK Cards
Labels:
gaming; PK Cards
Finally finished playing our first game of PK Cards The Broken Seal. It took us about 3 hours of play time. Part of me blames the fact it's our first game. First-time games are always like that: you are unfamiliar with the game mechanics. You second guess every rule because you wonder if you read it and understood the rules right. You debate with your equally bewildered opponent whether you both agree with the same interpretation of the wording. The other part of me blames the fact that PK cards is simply a long game.
Compared to Magic: The Gathering where a lucky break will allow you to win big-time resulting in games as short as 5 or 10 minutes, PK doesn't allow for landslide victories so easily. You play Battles (made up of “Sorties”) until you get 7 wins. So far we've gotten our fastest Battle down to about 10 minutes. That said, a true landslide win is indeed rewarded with additional victory points on the score-board.
Unfortunately while this does make for decisive games leaving very little question who deserved to win in the end, I just don't see a game that lasts more than 2 hours picking up steam at our little club (which is composed of 20-30-somethings in an office environment who have only a lunch hour to play games together every day (and even then we don't necessarily play every day).
So how does it work? It's like a really complex version of War. Players take turns playing cards while being the attacker and defender. Offense and Defense scores on creature cards are compared. If they tie, then there's a complex version of Rock-Paper-Scissors using the colours shown on the play-mat grid. If the colours don't line up, then it goes to blind luck by drawing from the deck and comparing the numbers on the drawn card. Do this 7 times. The player with the most Sortie wins has won this Battle.
As you can see, between the sheer number of times to play “Sorties,” and then all the variations to the Sortie introduced by the different Power and Influence cards to modify the Creature's stats, each Battle can swing wildly from only a few minutes to many more minutes of game time.
I've continued to buy a few boosters in the interim because like Weirdguy I have a bit of faith. We've suggested that perhaps after some deck customization the game will move faster. For instance, eliminating a few different creature types or colours would simplify a lot of the stats modifiers. And of course, a better hand will probably lead to quicker Battles overall.
Compared to Magic: The Gathering where a lucky break will allow you to win big-time resulting in games as short as 5 or 10 minutes, PK doesn't allow for landslide victories so easily. You play Battles (made up of “Sorties”) until you get 7 wins. So far we've gotten our fastest Battle down to about 10 minutes. That said, a true landslide win is indeed rewarded with additional victory points on the score-board.
Unfortunately while this does make for decisive games leaving very little question who deserved to win in the end, I just don't see a game that lasts more than 2 hours picking up steam at our little club (which is composed of 20-30-somethings in an office environment who have only a lunch hour to play games together every day (and even then we don't necessarily play every day).
So how does it work? It's like a really complex version of War. Players take turns playing cards while being the attacker and defender. Offense and Defense scores on creature cards are compared. If they tie, then there's a complex version of Rock-Paper-Scissors using the colours shown on the play-mat grid. If the colours don't line up, then it goes to blind luck by drawing from the deck and comparing the numbers on the drawn card. Do this 7 times. The player with the most Sortie wins has won this Battle.
As you can see, between the sheer number of times to play “Sorties,” and then all the variations to the Sortie introduced by the different Power and Influence cards to modify the Creature's stats, each Battle can swing wildly from only a few minutes to many more minutes of game time.
I've continued to buy a few boosters in the interim because like Weirdguy I have a bit of faith. We've suggested that perhaps after some deck customization the game will move faster. For instance, eliminating a few different creature types or colours would simplify a lot of the stats modifiers. And of course, a better hand will probably lead to quicker Battles overall.
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